Sabzi polo (fragrant herbed rice) with trout

Rinse the rice in 3-4 changes of water and bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Stir in the rice and boil briskly until al dente, about 5-7 minutes. Drain, then gently run cold water over the rice in the sieve, until cooled. Sit the sieve over the pan and let the rice stand for 10 minutes. Mix a small mugful of the rice with 50g feta; set aside.

Add the oil to a large casserole or heavy-based pan. Fry the shallots over a medium heat, stirring often, for 16-18 minutes until browned and crisp (be aware they can catch easily). Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shallots to a plate. Trim any excess sinew from the chicken, chop into bite-sized chunks and season. Add to the pan with the butter, fry for 4-6 minutes until lightly browned, then lift out onto another plate.

Pour off and keep the fat from the pan, then wipe the pan clean. Cut a square of parchment paper just larger than the base, scrunch it up, then flatten in the pan. Return the fat to the pan along with ½ the saffron and spread over an even layer of the feta-rice mix.

Scatter in ½ the remaining saffron and ½ the apricots. Follow with a layer of roughly 1/3 each of the remaining rice, feta, crispy shallots, barberries and nuts, then add ½ the chicken. Repeat the above, then finish with a layer of plain rice. Reserve the remaining 1/3 of the feta, shallots, barberries and nuts, to serve.

Poke 8 holes in the rice to the base of the pan with the handle of a wooden spoon. Cook over a medium heat for 15 minutes, rotating the pan occasionally (steam will release). Wrap the lid in a clean tea towel, cover and cook over a very low heat for 35 minutes. Take off the heat to rest for 15 minutes. Turn the rice out onto a platter (or scoop out if you prefer). Scatter with the reserved feta, shallots, barberries and nuts and serve with yogurt, if liked.